La Chemise - Atelier Brunette (pattern review)

My January project was more complicated than I expected, and I finished it only last week. Even it I had already altered the pattern to fit me in lenght, I still had to rip-stitch, alter the pattern again and sew it again. The good news is, the more I look at the finished garment, the more I love it and I think I will wear this shirt a lot this summer.

The pattern I used is La Chemise from Atelier Brunette. It is an oversized shirt with dolman sleeves and two seams at the front that has a very 80s look. I still like the design, but I can’t recommand this pattern as the sizing is very off. I made a size XS - which I knew was going to be big on me - but it was more of an oversized medium. I had to make a pleat at the center back, cut at the center front and re-draft the neckline and collar to have a decent fit. Otherwise, I did not change the pattern’s design. 

The instructions were fine - there’s a 1 cm mistake for the length of the cuff slit - and I learned how to make my new favorite type of slit placket. I also decided to modify the seams finishes because I do not own a serger. I used flat felled seams for the front and shoulder seams and French seams for the sleeves seams. 

For the fabric, I chose a beautiful cotton oxford shirting fabric from Core Fabrics. It frays and marks a lot but it is soft, easy to work with and so pretty. I will buy this fabric again if it works for the project. The flat felled seams sewn with white thread look very good the white and yellow tones of the fabrics.

I also got mother of pearl buttons from Core Fabrics. They worked better than the vintage mother of pearl buttons that I had, but I ended up missing at least four buttons for the center front button placket. It doesn’t really bother me because I rarely button my shirts all up and can always sew more buttons and button holes later.

The process was a roller coaster and I had to let the finish project sit for a week before I actually liked it, but now I am very happy to have made it. I am confident that I will wear this shirt a lot this summer.

Summary

Pattern : La Chemise - Atelier Brunette

Fabric : Cotton Oxford Shirting in Buttter Yellow - Core Fabrics

Buttons : Mother of Pearl Shell Buttons - Core Fabrics